I haven’t been to Barishal by steamer in the last two years. We call steamers ‘rockets.’ It’s also called a ship. I don’t know why we call it a rocket. Because it moves forward with two large paddles, it’s called a paddle steamer. These centuries-old steamers were initially powered by coal-generated steam, hence the name ‘steamer.’ We also call them ‘rocket steamers.’
Since the Padma Bridge opened, I haven’t traveled to Barishal by water. In fact, steamers aren’t very common on this route anymore. This traditional watercraft is almost extinct.
Launch companies have replaced steamers. But the joy and comfort of traveling in a rocket steamer are unmatched by launches. To me, launches feel like confined spaces. Even though there are now many large and luxurious launches plying the Dhaka-Barishal route, I don’t find them very appealing. This is because I’ve always preferred traveling by steamer. When I was a student, I used to go to Barishal daily. The steamer would leave Badamtali Ghat at 11 AM and reach Barishal around 6 PM. There was no hassle of sleeping at night. I would travel happily.
There was a kitchen on the lower deck of the steamer. Around noon, the aroma of cooking beef would spread throughout the entire steamer. At that moment, my stomach would rumble with hunger, but often, due to lack of money, I couldn’t eat. I would just have a rusk and a banana. In my mind, I would say to myself, ‘When I grow up, I’ll travel first class on a steamer and eat plenty of beef with rice.’ The beautiful women in first class would no longer look at me with pity. The day’s journey was incredibly beautiful. People from both sides of the river could be seen, farmers carrying sheaves of rice on their heads, or the incredible sight of fishermen catching hilsa in the Meghna.
Some people used to come and go from Chandpur. Rural scenery always fascinates me. The brides on the banks of the river used to take water in pitchers. I watched them with fascination. Although I was a third-class traveling passenger on the lower deck of the steamer, I moved to the first-class long deck. I used to hang out there in groups and sing songs. At that time many foreigners also traveled by steamer. He used to go to Khulna via Barisal and then Sundarbans. I have a love story called Jeevan Bare Bare Aase about steamer travel. That was the true story. I also have a book with this name.
Then once the steamer also started night service in conjunction with the launch. It used to leave at six in the evening from both directions. He reached his destination early in the morning. By that time I was working, married. My kids especially wanted to go to Barisal on Ark Steamer. This is because steamer cutlets were his favorite and fried khichuri for dinner.
Since then I started going to first class. Getting tickets was difficult but I managed just fine. I traveled by steamer for a long time after coming to Canada. I used to go alone. There was only one single cabin. If I didn’t get that, I would take a double. A seat was always empty. Steamers no longer ply this route. Due to BIWTC’s bureaucracy and corruption, this wonderful service has now fallen into disrepair.
The giant steamers like Gazi, Ostris, Masud, Tarn etc. are almost gone now. Those golden days will never return. Bho will not crowd the ghat anymore. Launch companies are also behind the closure of steamer services. They have been abusing passengers for many years. Arbitrariness has decreased after the launch of Padma Setu. Now the situation is no longer that exciting. I would like the steamer service to resume. A strange thrill rose in the heart when the steamer entered the Kirtankhola river on a foggy morning. I will meet with my mother soon! Now there is no mother, there is no steamer service!
Toronto 16 October 2024
